Air
Cleaners
Probably no other part on a
spider gets more attention than the air cleaner. If an owner
has modified his car in any way, it is likely to be replacement
of the factory UFO air cleaner with a shiny chrome aftermarket
piece.
There is also a lot of information
available about the relative merits and issues relating to the
many options that are out there. I'll try to cover a couple of
the variations and mention a few of the issues you might be concerned
about when selecting one for your car.
The
three parameters that need attention are: appearance, clearance,
and effectiveness. Most people can't resist the idea of getting
something shiny that is easy to install under the hood of their
car. I've included a picture here of a factory air cleaner commonly
called a "turtleback" above and also another creative
solution from Bill Acklin's 2003 award winning car using crankcase
breathers on each individual airhorn.
While it is usually appearance
that moves us to replace the UFO, we quickly become aware of
the issue of clearance. There is precious little room between
any of the carb/manifold combinations and the hoods. Most critical
are the 1608/flat hood and any 2L version. Generally if you stick
to an air cleaner with at or less than 1.75" total height,
you will be ok. OK may still mean a tight fit.
Even
the factory turtleback with it's hard to find element is prone
to vibrate on the hood or timing belt cover at various engine
speeds. Aftermarket are available in stamped chrome, cast aluminum,
or sheet steel. The vintage cast Redline covers on Red at left
are getting rather hard to find as are the K&N filters though
the elements are still available.
Thanks to Tom Nicotera for
sluething out some compatible elements for the factory turtleback
aircleaner. The cross reference numbers are:
Purolater: A50991 - Fram: CA340A - WIX: 42113
K&N: E1580 - Amsoil: TS20 - STP: SA340A You will have
to oval the round filter to get it to pop into place, but it
will fit fine.
There are a couple of things
you can do to help maximize clearance. Some rubber engine mounts
are shorter than others. It's possible to get an additional .25"
by elongating the holes in the engine mounting brackets (be sure
to drop the transmission mount a like amount). Also the large
bump hoods have slightly more clearance, though most folks prefer
the hood that comes with their car. If you have a 1800 or 2L
engine in a small bumper car, you might gain a bit more clearance
by mounting a crossmember for a 2L car. These let the engine
sit a bit lower in the chassis and don't cost a huge amount of
money to buy.
Some
aftermarket air cleaners can be flexed or bent slightly down
so they sit lower on the carb getting a bit more room. I might
add here that there is another issue that prevents you from getting
the carbs too short. The factory airhorns on the original Fiat
13/15 IDF carbs will be very close to the top of the air cleaner
preventing you from lowering them too much. There are some aftermarket
airhorns out there (abarth actually used a shorter version on
the factory race cars inside an empty turtleback. Picture on
left.) that are lower than the stock units. Thankfully the VW
bug interest in the Weber IDF has prolonged the availability
of rebuild kits and aftermarket parts for these carbs.
The third issue is serviceability.
Some of the aftermarket elements are nothing more than sponge
foam. These do little to filter out anything smaller than larger
insects and the occasional semi truck. When shopping for your
filter, try to consider the issue of element replacement. There
are good elements and air cleaners available from K&N and
Weber. You can check their websites for more information. Here
again the VW crowd has helped us out. Pierce manifolds has a
good selection of air cleaners for both the DCNF and the IDF
carbs. Also nice shiny chrome bits for your standard single carb.
Do a Search for their current web address.
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